Port Townsend Afternoon: High Tea at Pippa's

Since I wrote this, Pippa retired and sold her teahouse, which now is Cafe Tenby. I'm not sure if they will continue the high tea tradition after the pandemic. 

Here in the Pacific Northwest, an English-style High Tea at the Empress Hotel in Victoria, B.C. is an iconic regional experience. Many here have fond memories of the High Tea with their mothers, grandmothers, aunties, or the whole family. Last summer I took my niece up there for the day, and we relished the splurge.

However, for an equally special indulgence at about half the price and with more refined tea, try the High Tea at Pippa's Real Tea in Port Townsend, Washington, which lies south across the Strait of Juan de Fuca from Victoria.

When I studied abroad in England, I used to splurge on the marvelous tea with jam, clotted cream, and scones. On an earlier visit to Pippa's this year, when she mentioned their authentic clotted cream (she spent 3 months perfecting the recipe) and fresh scones with tea, I knew I had to come back. 

So I invited my niece Willa to join me again. When we arrived for our 3 pm reservations last Saturday afternoon, we were ushered back to a table set with fresh linen and flowers. (Must say, at the Empress High Tea last summer, our table wasn't as tastefully draped with linen like at Pippa's.)

With an impressive selection of black, green, white, and herbal teas to choose from, Willa went for the white peach tea and I chose my fav, jasmine pearls. When I said I was having a hard time deciding on a tea, our friendly server mentioned I could just have another pot of different tea later. (Unlimited tea is part of the High Tea service.)

Light and crisp jasmine pearls tea.

Then an enticing three-tiered tray full of artfully arranged treats arrived and the nibbling began. On top was a variety of little tarts, shortbread, cookies, and fresh berries. In the middle were several petite fresh scones with that dee-lish clotted cream and berry jam, and little tea sandwiches rounded out the feast.

It was indeed a feast for the senses. I enjoyed a couple mini-sandwiches (chicken salad, egg salad, cream cheese and pickles, salmon salad), a small currant scone slathered with clotted cream and jam, and a cookie. Then I exceeded capacity with a tiny chocolate tart and slice of shortbread.

I think perhaps drinking a whole pot of jasmine tea pretty quickly filled me up too. But it was so crisp, floral, and perfectly brewed.

My aunt and Willa's great aunt Sylvia, a Port Townsend local, joined us for tea, and Pippa stopped by our table to say hello.  When my niece mentioned an upcoming environmental studies trip to South Africa, Pippa enthusiastically offered her samples of several South African roibos teas to take home.

Pippa!

While I certainly can't indulge in a high tea more than once a year or so, it was a lovely afternoon in a lovely little town with my niece (who'll be off to college soon) and my aunt. Two thumbs up for Pippa and her beautiful teas.

When You Go
High tea is served at Pippa's on Saturday afternoons at 1 pm and 3 pm for $38/person. Reservations are required. A less expensive alternative is the cream tea offered daily, which includes two scones with clotted cream and jam and unlimited tea  for $15 and doesn't require reservations. Or stop in and enjoy a pot of tea with a variety of baked goods or snacks. Pippa's is open Wednesday through Sunday, 10:00 – 5:00 (ish) at 636 Water Street in Port Townsend.









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Port Townsend Afternoon: Discovering a Perfect Cup of Tea



While artsy, Victorian-esque Port Townsend, Washington, is indeed quieter in the winter, it's still a fun and refreshing destination regardless of the season. 

When I go there to visit family, I regularly make pilgrimage stops at some favorite local spots like William James Bookseller for used and rare books, Chimacum Corner Farmstand for local farm meats and produce, and Elevated Ice Cream for excellent ice cream. This past weekend, thanks to a transcendent pot of exquisite tea, I've added a new stop to my list.

After a tasty lunch at Silverwater Cafe, my aunt suggested a cup of tea at Pippa's Real Tea, just around the corner on Water Street. [Since I wrote this, Pippa retired and sold her teahouse, which is now Cafe Tenby.]

Last time I was at Pippa's was a few years ago, not long after it opened. I remember it as a warm, cozy yet contemporary space with nice tea.

Aussie proprietor/owner Pippa Mills (by way of London and New York) now offers High Tea on Saturday afternoons, opened a courtyard out back for warm weather tea al fresco, and has seen her business named #1 Best Tea House by the Seattle A-List (never mind that Port Townsend is over 50 miles and a ferry ride away from Seattle).

High Tea service at Pippa's

 

The real Pippa

But back to that amazing tea. I ordered the delicate Silver Needles white tea from Glenburn Tea Estate in the renowned Darjeeling region of northern India. What a revelation!

If you think you don't like tea, I say you haven't had a high-quality tea carefully brewed with expertise (good water heated to just the right temperature, steeped just the right amount of time, served in appropriate china or glassware in a pleasing setting, etc.).

I've had silver needle tea from China, but this Indian tea is smooth, buttery, floral, and light yet crisp. Words aren't doing it justice. Five days later I'm still thinking about it, how that perfect cup of tea sliced through everything and hit the sweet spot.

Pippa came to our table with a beautiful smile and got excited when I raved about the tea. She brought over several canisters of loose leaf tea from Glenburn and described how different teas come from the same plants with different harvesting times and processing techniques.

Different tea, same tea plants

Her enthusiasm and gracious manner (she calls herself a tea maven, not tea master) was infectious. I enjoyed a whiff of each, some richer, stronger, fruitier.

I asked Pippa how she came to open a tea house in Port Townsend.

"When I came to the States from London many years ago, I couldn't find good quality tea. People mostly drank tea in tea bags [which are generally lower quality teas]." When visiting relatives in Victoria, B.C., her family stopped in Port Townsend and fell in love pretty quickly.

Port Townsend, where small businesses have hand-crafted signs out front.

So she aimed to open a tea house serving quality loose leaf teas with excellent baked goods and lunches to match. I'm so glad she did. 

And now I'm off to see if I can possibly replicate the perfect cup with some of that silver needle tea I bought and brought home.

Happy trails and thanks for visiting Pacific Northwest Seasons! In between blog posts, visit Pacific NW Seasons on FaceBook, Twitter, and Instagram for more Northwest photos and outdoors news.  

When You Go
Pippa's Real Tea is located at 636 Water Street, the main street that runs along the water in old downtown Port Townsend, toward the north end of town.  They host a variety of arts and food/tea-related activities. Pippa's is open Wednesday through Sundays from 10 a.m. to 5 (ish) pm. From the Seattle area, easiest driving route is to catch a ferry (downtown Seattle Colman Dock Terminal to Bainbridge, or Edmonds to Kingston) and head north/west across the Hood Canal Bridge on Highway 104, then north on SR 19. Check here for detailed directions from either ferry terminal. Expect about 90 minutes travel time if driving, given the ferry loading/unloading.

Victoria B.C. Day Trip: By Sea for Tea at the Empress

Part 1 of 2 about a terrific day trip to Victoria, B.C., from Seattle via the Victoria Clipper. 

One of the great things about being in the Pacific Northwest is our proximity to beautiful British Columbia, Canada, just a few hours north of Seattle. A fun way to travel north is via the Victoria Clipper, direct from downtown Seattle to Victoria's Inner Harbour in less than 3 hours.

While I usually head to B.C. for epic kayaking, hiking, or skiing, sometimes I go for more urban pleasures.  Last weekend I had a thoroughly enjoyable day in Victoria, B.C., with my niece Willa via the Clipper, where we indulged in the famous Victorian-style tea at the grand and historic Fairmount Empress Hotel.

It's an early morning start for sure, with a 6:30 a.m. check-in at Pier 69 on Seattle's waterfront, but definitely worth the predawn wake-up. Because we went just for the day, we opted for the 7:30 rather than 9:00 a.m. departure to make our reservations for tea and have more time to explore.

And we're off! Seattle skyline receding in the Clipper's wake.

First, I'd like to say the Clipper staff and crew were exceptionally friendly and helpful on the trip up and back. Everyone was already in vacation mode, but the crew added to the ambiance. For onboard food and drink, they feature as much Northwestern fare as possible, and I enjoyed some excellent tea and a sandwich for breakfast, while Willa had locally made Greek-style yogurt and fruit.

As Willa napped enroute, I chatted up other travelers. Although I heard several languages besides English being spoken, interestingly, most of the people I talked to were fellow Northwesterners from Washington and Oregon.

Just arrived. The Empress from the Inner Harbour.

After disembarking about 10:30 a.m. at the Clipper terminal, we wandered over to the Empress a few blocks away for our tea reservation at 11:15. While the Victorian tea is traditionally a mid-afternoon treat, for us it was perfect timing. This early lunch left us more time to explore in the afternoon.

The impressive French chateau-style Empress facade.

Recently renovated, the tea lobby is spacious and light in an Old World charming way.  We were seated close to the big windows shown in the photo above at the old entrance.

Even though it's not promoted as such, this was a filling and satisfying lunch for us both. Our über friendly server Jan (yes, everyone who served us all day was gracious) started us off with an impressive tea selection. I chose a delicate, floral jasmine tea, while Willa went for a fragrant mint. (Neither of us are caffeine fiends.)

 

The Empress Tea China was first used here for the 1939 Royal visit of King George VI and Queen Elizabeth.

We're each given our own pot with a timer for steeping, and when I understeep, Jan quickly refreshes my pot so I can get a stronger steep. Because it's about the tea. And the sweets, scones, and tea sandwiches, which are perfectly prepared and decadently delicious.

"It doesn't feel like it's warm, but inside it's perfect," said Willa as she raved about the creamy, soft warm Empress signature raisin scone, served with English-style clotted cream and strawberry jam. 

Neither of us could finish everything, but I tasted a bit of each treat.  My favorite tea sandwich was the island egg salad with basil on a mini brioche bun. My favorite sweet was the chocolate cremeux dome tart, while Willa's was the passion fruit strawberry pavlova. And the warm raisin scone—divine. As I ate it, I thought to myself: This might be the best scone I've ever tasted.

I've never seen my petite gymnast niece eat as much food in one sitting. Now, Empress, that's saying something about your excellent fare. To quote my niece:

"Canada, you Empressed me." 

We lingered over the tea for as long as possible, but it was time to move on and go explore for a few hours.  Check back soon for the next post about walking around the Inner Harbour area!

Happy trails and thanks for visiting Pacific Northwest Seasons! In between blog posts, visit Pacific NW Seasons on FaceBook, Twitter, and Instagram for more Northwest photos and outdoors news.

When You Go
The Clipper ferry departs Seattle for Victoria seven days a week (weather permitting), check schedules and fares here. Because we traveled on a weekend, we got reservations for tea at the Empress in advance. Here is their tea menu. They accommodate dietary needs (e.g., my niece is a vegetarian and got meatless sandwiches), especially if you let them know in advance. They do have a dress code, so basically leave the torn jeans, sports clothes, and flip flops at home and opt for smart casual attire (or dressier if that's your thing). I wore clean jeans and a jacket, which was fine.

Tea off the Beaten Path

While I've blogged about tea houses before here at Pacific Northwest Seasons,  guest blogger Brenna Ciummo, who wrote today's post, has introduced me to some great new places to experience wonderful tea in and outside Seattle. Read on!

If you’re a tea drinker in the Puget Sound region, you've likely visited many of the popular tea houses in the area. If you haven’t, you definitely should. Even though Seattle is still primarily a coffee-based city, there are quite a few tea shops that are worth checking out. Whether you’re searching for a new place to stock up on interesting teas or want to find a quiet, offbeat tea house to add to your repertoire, here are a few hidden gems to add to your list.

Seattle Best Tea
Often described as one of the best Asian tea houses on the West Coast, Seattle Best Tea is the shop for you if love Chinese teas. Seattle Best Tea isn’t a café where you can purchase a pot of tea and snack. However, that doesn’t mean there isn’t a great sense of community inside this International District store. There is always a seat at the tea tasting table for anyone who walks in, and Lydia (one of the shop’s owners), will work with you to find a tea that suits your tastes, while teaching you about the different types of tea along the way.  There is no pressure to purchase a tea, although with the large selection it's hard not to walk out of the store with at least a couple of teas. 

Village Eatery and Tea Company
If you head northeast from Seattle, you'll find Village Eatery and Tea Company tucked into the back corner of Country Village (a quaint, outdoor shopping center) in Bothell. They serve a tasty traditional high tea, with soup or salad, puff pastries, scones, tea sandwiches, and plenty of baked desserts. If you aren’t quite that hungry, there are also other English-style treats available, such as Cornish pasties and the Ploughman’s lunch. The shop has a wide selection of loose leaf tea, so if you’ve discovered a tea you enjoy, purchase it and brew at home. 

Experience Tea
Experience Tea is not just a retail tea shop in Issaquah, but a place to learn more about the world of tea. You can purchase a variety of unique teas and teaware, and shop owner Roberta teaches everything from a general discovery class to classes that cover specific types of tea. There is even a custom tea blending class where you can create your own signature blend to take home. All of these classes include plenty of tea tasting! 

Baicha Tea Room
I hadn’t heard of this tearoom until recently, when I was talking about local tea houses  with a fellow tea lover who mentioned Biacha. Baicha Tea Room in Edmonds (20 minutes north of Seattle) serves a variety of the tea sandwiches I've grown to adore but that can be surprisingly hard to come by. The tea room also serves up delicious brunch and lunch fare and of course a great selection of teas. You’ll find traditional white, oolong, green, and black tea as well as a number of brews  unique to Baicha, such as wellness blends, flavored and scented teas, and even tea smoothies.

The Japanese Tea Garden
 
Maybe you've been to the Arboretum in Seattle's Madison Valley, but did you know that you can attend a Japanese tea ceremony there? From April through October, tea ceremonies are held in the Japanese Garden Shoseian Tea House on the third Saturday each month. The Chado demonstrations are free and no reservations are required, but if you would like to partake in a bowl of tea and sweets from the demonstration, you can purchase a $5 ticket at the garden booth. 

Savrika Tea
There are numerous modern yet cozy tea houses popping up to the north and to the east of Seattle besides Baicha. On my list to try is SavrikaTea in Kirkland, which opened in 2012 and claims to be “a modern tea room serving over 200 teas.” If the pictures are true, the shop looks like a great place to relax. While visiting these tea rooms may take a little extra effort if you live in Seattle proper, they are a great excuse to get out and explore the rest of the area. Plus, the tea and food at these shops are worth the trip!

Brenna Ciummo is a writer for Seattle Coffee Gear and enjoys sharing her knowledge of all things coffee and tea. An avid tea drinker, she is always searching for new tearooms to explore.